Hey guys, I'm new to the Hydrodyne scene. Looking at a used 84 Hydrodyne outboard...not sure of the models as I've always been Malibu/mastercraft guy... Anyways, the boat definitely needs a floor and new upholstery. I am curious if there will be stringers and other serious complications once I get under there? Transom seems very solid. Boat just got sun beaten and left alone too long and I want to bring it back to life. I have a 235 evinrude to go on it. Lastly, how are the wakes on these for footing? And I noticed the skag on the hull is further back than I expected and longer than I'm used to seeing...how do these handle? Comparable to what? I've driven just about every other competition ski boat there is but Hydrodynes are foreign to me. Any and all knowledge is much appreciated. Thanks.
Stringers are not a big issue if you are doing a floor. Was the boat left out in the rain with the motor mounting holes (in the transom) exposed? If so, they may be wet. What year is the Evinrude? If you live in an area that has water ski shows, go talk to the drivers and skiers. We have members that can answer the skiing and handling questions, but they are not here a lot. Hydrodyne handling does not compare to any inboard. The 20 is used for multiple footers in shows because of its pulling power with multiple engines. It will banks it's turns and not turn as tight as an inboard. I am not a footer, so I will not comment on the wake. There are multiple discussions of wake here if you care to search. There is also a video section. Welcome to the forum, Jim
Brooks- On our show team we currently run a 1983 20 footer with a 200 Etec H.O., and a stainless 4 blade 17 pitch prop. A Hydrodyne like this is kind of like a muscle car, great in a straight line, not as great in the corners. If you corner at speed (maybe 25+??) with the motor trimmed full down, the boat will stay fairly flat. At lower speeds it will roll up like you'd expect an outboard to do. Although whether you're skiing, footing, wakeboarding or whatever, how often do you need to do a tight power turn? The big advantage these have over other types of outboard boats is planing speed. The hulls are quite flat which means they plane almost instantly, with little to no bow rise. I own a Malibu with a very worked over motor which runs 56 GPS top end, and the holeshot from the Hydrodyne is faster because of the hull shape. Top end of our Hydrodyne single is somewhere in the mid to high 40s when trimmed out with the 17 pitch prop. The footing wake is okay, not as good as a direct drive. The table as well is just okay, but the table conditions depends also on what prop you use. I am an average footer and wake crossings for me aren't too bad on the Hydrodyne. If you are interested in just footing in the curl or inside the wake, I think you'll be more than pleased with the Dyne. Feel free to PM me with questions and good luck with your boat search. Aaron
They're a good footing boat as a single rig. The table is flat and harder than most inboards will be. The wake is a hair steeper than some of the other footing specific outboards though (Sanger barefooter, Centurion Barefoot Warrior or Barefoot Falcon (both outboards)), or Flightcraft outboard). Put hydraulic steering on, and the handling won't be too different, but you will be turning from farther back compared to the inboards, so won't have quite the sports-car handling feel that a direct drive has.
Sounds fairly positive. It comes with a 150 evinrude, but I have a 235 evinrude to put on it. I will be running a standard 3 blade aluminum prop for the first month. Sounds like it needs the extra power for top end (so as not to work the motor as hard for 1 or 2 footers at 42 mph). I was wondering how it would handle with the skag further back than I would expect. I am glad it planes quickly and leaves no rollers, that is very nice to hear. I will be using it for slalom skiing as well, how is the wake for that? Anything else I should know about the handling or the boat in general? It is a classic boat, I am excited to own one and fix it back up to rockstar appearances.
Also, I was noticing I may be able to run the boom off of the pylon above the seat...if I turn the standard direct drive barefoot international boom on a different angle and place a padded spacer between the boom and the sidewall of the boat...thoughts? I also thought about removing the back bench when I plan on using the boom, and then I can run it off the bottom of the pylon near the floor and use the boom at the standard angle (I figure). Again, I don't have the boat yet, should have it in two days so I'll have plenty of time to play with the configuration and get to know the boat. Lastly, the boat needs a new floor, does anyone know if this boat will have wooden stringers and a huge mess under the floor once I tear it up? Also, does anyone recommend a good composite material to use for the floor (and potentially stringers) instead of wood so that I never have to do it again?
I am restoring a 72 with composits. See my thread in the restoration section "1972 Keel Up Restoration". All of your composite questions are answered in that thread. Good luck with your new boat and welcome to the forum.
I don't recall if I've ever skied a boom on an outboard dyne (so don't recall what kind of side-spray they throw if any), but generally speaking, the farther forward you put your boom (and the farther out you go) the higher the likelihood of being spray free. I would work on getting the boom on a flat angle to put it as far forward as you can, and also allow use with the bench in. Alternatively, BI's V-drive boom does about the same thing, or a gunnel mount would put you as far forward as you want to go.
I've thought about gunnel mounts. But I am trying to use the standard direct drive boom I already have to save money. Methinks it'll work for footing on the boom...maybe not on a 5 or 10 foot line.
