Looking for 200hp Outboard!

I'm going to be ordering a new dyne 18 this fall, so if anyone comes across a "newer" 200hp outboard for a good price let me know.

I'm going to be using the boat for mostly barefooting and some recreational skiing, so I think I need atleast a 200hp engine.

I'm not brand specific, so if you come across anything post it up for me <img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_smile.gif" border="0" alt="Smile" title="Smile" />

 

I'm in the process of fully restoring a 1973 outboard Hydrodyne and have purchased a new Merc. Optimax 225 for the boat. Some have said that this 3.0 litre engine is too much weight for these boats but at 512 lbs it is still a good bit less than a typical twin rig of that era, which usually involved more than 600-700 pounds of engines. I've heard it said that if you are going to go with a 200hp engine you should look for one of the recent, but no longer manufactured, 2.5 litre carburated Merc. 200's - as they provide a low weight to power ratio. Either way, if you figure out what prop to use, I'd be interested in whatever you learn on that score. I'm still trying to figure out what prop I'm going to need with the 225.

Good luck. If I had known I could build a brand new 18' that's probably the route I'd have gone, although my kids and I have really enjoyed our project on the '73, which has undergone a massive restoration, including the entire removal of the deck for substructure replacement. It has now been reassembled using carriage bolts instead of structural rivets, as is done in the construction of the new Dynas.

Best,

MarkBano

 

Mark,

The standard waterski prop for a merc is a 17 plain 3 blade. Nothing fancy. I even use an aluminum prop because I like to modify. It will top out on the rev limiter at about 50.

Your motor will probably pull at least a 21 if you want to go faster. <img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_rolleyes.gif" border="0" alt="Rolling Eyes" title="Rolling Eyes" />

jim

 

I'm not too interested in speed. I want it to pull like a tractor. Last weekend we were pulling four skiiers (two adults, to kids - each on two skis) behind the family Glastron (135 Optimax) and it was a bit of a pull. Deep water slalom starts on the high performance slalom skis are tough behind that boat. I'm older and fatter than I used to be and I want to pop out on deep water starts in a double boot slalom ski so I want a lot of grunt rather than speed.

 

Mark,

That 225 will probably pull up three or more slaloms with a 17. I have seen them with 15,s also.

Like I told you before you have a real treat coming the first time you nail it. It might even make you wonder about your transom work.

jim

 

I have no doubt that I'll worry over the transom. However, if you saw what came out of the boat compared to how the new one is built, you'd probably be satisfied that it ain't goin' nowhere.

The original was two 3/4 inch sheets of plywood stapled together with about 8 staples and no fiberglass between them. One of the sheets was already compromised because it was scrap wood with big saw cuts that went 1/3 of the way through in several areas.

The new transom is three sheets of plywood (5/8-5/8-1/4) with glass mat between the 5/8 layers and glass matt AND roving between the 5/8 and the 1/4 layer. The transom-to-hull connection is all sealed with fairing compound (which was not done on the original design) and has two additional roving layers over the original design. To top it all off, each layer of the transom was done separately and bolted and clamped in place for curing. In other words, there are transom-to-hull connections at each layer, instead of just on the last layer, as was done in the original. Each layer is also fitted with screws before the glass was put on. It is all done in Vinylester resin, which is much stronger. It is then, finally, glassed to the deck and splashwell. I fully expect this transom to be the last remaining man made object on earth. Was that more information than you wanted? <img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_wink.gif" border="0" alt="Wink" title="Wink" />

 

Yes, it was. I was not putting down your transom, just emphasizing that your motor will have a lot of push.

jim

 

I know. But I had to use your point to take the opportunity to talk about the transom anyway. You see, a transom is a pretty boring thing. And you spend hours and hours working on it, only to have it completely hidden and ignored when the boat is completed. The only one who knows what went into it is the sucker that inhaled fiberglass dust and fumes for weeks. So....I had to talk about it.

I recall a story about a guy who was rebuilding his race boat and was so concerned about strength of the transom that he overbuilt it, with many extra layers of glass. When the boat was in an accident and was destroyed, the only thing that survived was the transom, with the motor mounts actually bent and broken off but still in place. That's the kind of transom I'd like to have.

Little known fact: Most transom damage results from trailering and storage without the use of a proper transom saver support and from rot. When the boat is actually in the water, there is little stress on the transom, even with the engine tilted. The water provides substantial support to the transom. Under acceleration, even in a tail walk, the stress is only moderate because the force vector on the transom is mostly down - not back and forth. A down force vector is really not hard on the transom. Just interesting tidbits I've picked up in my reading.

Now, with all of that, my transom will probably collapse the first time I hit the throttle! <img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_sad.gif" border="0" alt="Sad" title="Sad" />

 

chicagomastercraft,

My second choice for a 200 if you buy a new on would be the Evinrude e-tec based solely on weight. It is a small block (2.6 liter) so it is light at 419. If you decide to go this way, check with some of the teams about the motor. A good friend of mine is a dealer and I will check with him if you decide on that motor. Prior to e-tec their 200's were big blocks and heavier, so at least Bombardier is going in the right direction. I think I would try a 15 pitch on that one. A 17 might be good to. I run an uncupped 17 which gets about the same rpm as a cupped 15.

http://www.evinrude.com/en-US/Engines/2005/E-Tec/Freshwater.200.175.150/Specifications/200/

jim

 

Thanks for the info on the E-tec....one of the ski teams I know people on in WI uses E-tecs, so I'll give him a call.