1972 Keel Up Restoration

The transom and floor looks like wood but it is pure fiberglass with fingerprints of the wood that was there. More to follow and again all advice will be appreciated. I was going to give this boat to a boat builder and have him do it all but he told me to do all this work 1st so he could charge less and then have all the fun of doing the cool stuff. I am going to do the cool stuff like transom and stringers and core...

 

You can do this. I just have one more thought. Wood is light strong and economical for boat structures. I can imagine how you feel about wood after seeing all the rot. If you keep the boat inside or at least covered and dry the wood will last many years. My boat is 36 years old and has had one floor and stringers because I let it get wet and stay wet. The core is original. I am 76 years old, and I think it will outlast me.

Some of these Dynes have lived a rough life.

jim

 

I thought about balsa but after removing probably 1000 lbs (no joke) of rotted wood I am really leary of wood in the hull. When I do lay in the core it will be totally sealed and engineered to drain water to the stern. I am really looking hard at divinycell foam - expensive but it will last forever.

 

Looks like a lot of work. But the positive thing is that when you are finished you will have a like new boat and it will probably be more well built than when it was originally made. Nice work!

 

Yes alot of work so far but now the fun begins. Unfortunately the boat is at my lake cabin/shop which is 4 hours away from where I live so the work is going to go slow. I do plan several trips up there just to work on the boat and if things really start to happen I may take a week off this winter. However I do have 2 other boats so I can still be on the water wishing for the Dyne...

 

This is a pic of a typical kitchen cutting board. I dont know what it is made out of but it certainly seems to me to be durable enough to do 2 things I need:

1 - Secure the fin. I would glass the area in the hull/keel where the fin goes and then glass the cut up cutting board in. This would give me a surface that I could thru-bolt the fin to. Then put core material all around it to really secure the assembly forever and leak and rot proof.

2 - mount a ski pole. Once the stringers and core are in there there will be a space between the top of the the core and the coosa floor (sole for you hard core guys). A cutting board glassed into the bottom of the coosa floor would make a perfect hard mount to thru-bolt to the ski pole base. I plan on a ski pole that secures to the floor and with 2 arms that secure to the upper deck pointing aft. What do you think?

 

Here is a thread about composite floor:

http://www.hydrodyners.com/forum/index.php?threads/bartlett-18-restoration.1313/

I would test that cutting board to see if your resin will adhere to it.

jim

 

Jim is right. Put the deck on before you install a new floor, otherwise the boat will not be the proper shape and the deck might not go back on.

These pictures certainly bring back memories. Have you looked at the restoration section on this website. Plenty of pictures and how-to help from my project is available on this website in the "about dynes" section. Keep up the good work!

Markbano

 

Also - use only wood - preferably untreated wood - for covering with fiberglass. Thin the resin with some acetone so that the resin soaks into and adheres to the wood. If you use that cutting board the fiberglass will delaminate from it.

 

Good point Mark about making sure resin will adhere to the kitchen cutting board. I guess plan B would be to glass in a piece of aluminum for the thru-bolts.