1972 Keel Up Restoration

Just a quick follow-up. I like your choice of materials for this re-build. I didn't go to the 9's with the HD 20 i/o that I just completed because the structural elements were still in tact (basically the core) but may have retought the transom, stringers, and floor with your posts. Keep sharing your experiences with the pics!

Kevin-

 

I am always learning. In previous posts I have referred to the fin as a skeg and or a skeg/fin. GOT IT! The boat will have hydraulic steering. I am still looking for the best way to mount and secure the fin. I also thought the 3 degree imbalance probably would not make a difference but I want to do this right. I am anal about such things and why allow a 3 degree error if you are doing a keel up restoration?

 

Mine was done straight across with a minimum depth well at the stern. About 3-4 inches. I will measure it if you like. If I do it again it will have the same radius as the fore deck or close to it. It would be a little more difficult but more pleasing to the eye I think. You could run your hoses with all wiring and steering hoses inside straight forward into the bottom of the well. Or, you could run the steering hoses separate into bulkhead fittings. You will see some of that on Scream and Fly. My boat is a converted I/O and that is where the tow pylon came from.

You may want to mount the fin with lag screws so it can be maintained from the outside and replaced if necessary. Or you could imbed a threaded plate.

If the fin is not straight, there may already be some distortion in the hull.

jim

 

Is there any chemical that will remove carpet glue? I think that would be easier than sanding the stuff out. If you look on page 6 at the pic with the cement blocks in the boat you can see the carpet remains on the inside side.

 

I am still undecided about filling in the dip in the forward transom well straight across like Jim did or with a slight arch like Jim said he would do if he had to do it again. I am an accomplished woodworker and building the arch would be to me as easy as doing it straight across.

Mounting the fin is also a concern I have. I built a rock solid fin mounting area inside the hull shell and plan on having an access hole for inspection in the floor because I want to bolt that fin in. My concern is that the area outside the hull where the keel dips in for the fin is not flat. I do not have the tools to make that area machine flat like the mounting surface of the fin but I can get it close. There are a couple of ways I can make that surface flat. One would be to cover the fin's mounting surface with wax papar and covering the keel area with jelly resin, and than setting the fin in to make a near perfect surface. Remove the fin, drill the holes. seal with 3M 4000 series sealent and be done. That is the best plan I have at this time. I know you guys have remounted fins so is my plan good?

 

marine-tex is pretty tough stuff. You could just cover the area with it and sand to the contour you want. You get as many chances as you need to get it perfect.

jim

 

Biig restauration project indeed.......

 

How is it coming along? Do you have any current pics?

 

Ok - I'm still figuring out the new format here. Just looked at your pictures a few posts up. Looks great - and brings back a lot of memories. I didn't manage to get my 18 in the water last summer, which I regret. I used my Dyna-Ski twin rig and my brother had his 20' Hydrodyne at the lake and it just never seemed to make sense to pull the 18 out but now, reading these posts, I'm anxious for next summer so that I can get it in the water. Lord knows I have too many hours in it to leave it sitting in a garage. I still think it was worth the effort, and the boat still captures the attention of anyone who sees it. You'll be glad you undertook the project.