This is the boat I have. First time I've looked at in detail and took some pictures. I have an album here, Pictures. Hydrodyne 001 by dtrumbower, on Flickr A little worried about how the floor was added, once I saw this. Hydrodyne 027 by dtrumbower, on Flickr
My plans would be to use it if I can. I need a new engine and the transom needs rebuilt. The floor was redone before I got it. Though I'm wondering now, if it was done correctly.
Who do you have in mind for the transom? Good looking motor: http://www.hydrodyners.com/forum/index.php?threads/1998-175-evinrude-intruder-carbureted.1804/ jim
1st of all I would be concerned about the floor. You have said that the transom already needs replacement. What is under the floor should also be a concern as the stringers may be in a similar codition as the floor and transom. Then the question becomes how much work and $ you want to put into the boat if the floor/transom/stringers are shot. How bad do you want a classic Hydrodyne? If your boat is in the same condition as my 72 you have 2 choices - 1 - spend 5 to 8K on a budget restoration or spend 10+ on a restoration that will make it a new boat. Or 2 - buy a new boat. You should check out my thread under Restoration - 1972 Keel Up Restoration. This will give you a good idea of the labor and cost needed to undertake a project of this magnitude. I have not done anything on my boat for several months due to extranious circumstances but my project is still alive and well.
It looks like there is no raised floor aft of the seats. The floor looks like it is there only to mount the seats, and has only one stringer in the center which is visible in one of the pictures. I would be concerned about the core, but that is his call. jim
I would do the transom myself. Not looking to put a lot of money into it. I can handle the time. There are too many nice boats on the market for under 10k that would meet my demands for a barefoot boat/family boat. The stringer you see is the port side rear. This boat looks very similar to Mark Bano's 18' that he redid. No way am I going to be as extensive. I prefer woodworking and barefoot sking. Not sinking 5+ into used boat. hmm, I think I might of just made my decision.
If the balsa core is intact and you aren't planning on a repaint, you could rebuild that boat with traditional materials (plywood and polyester or vinylester resin) very economically if you are prepared to do the labor. Even epoxy wouldn't cost too much. On the other hand, if it is the older style hull with the longitudinal balsa boards and not end grain blocks it likely needs core and it gets more expensive and the amount of labor goes way up. It's nasty work removing balsa core and cleaning the inside of the hull to prep for new balsa, and it takes a LOT of resin to saturate the new core. Just my .02 cents....worth every penny you paid! Bernie
It also looks like the "shoe box joint" (where the deck meets the hull) has been compromised due to its age. In the condition it's in when you make a tight turn and get the boat up on it's side water is going to pour in. To do that repair correctly you have to pull the deck and replace all the wooden strips. You can see in your pictures, someone has been caulking it up. Bob
There is no wood all around the joint in this boat. I didn't realize there should be wood until looking at Bano's rebuild pictures.
