1963? Hydrodyne custome deluxe 1700 restoration thread

Discussion in 'Restoration Projects & Questions' started by BEFU-Brian, Feb 10, 2015.

  1. BEFU-Brian

    BEFU-Brian Established Hydrodyner

    Joined:
    Jan 29, 2015
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    154
    Location:
    Columbia city, IN by Fort Wayne
    Boat Model and Year:
    86 Formula 272LS, 1963 17' Hydrodyne custom deluxe
    This is the section along the rounded chine.
    IMG_5165.JPG

    Here you can see the dip or hook in the hull when you get close to the center keel
    IMG_5167.JPG

    When the straight edge is moved forward 12", you can see the hull is again straight.
    IMG_5169.JPG
     
  2. tj309

    tj309 Composite Specialist

    Joined:
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    Messages:
    399
    Location:
    LA (lower Alabama)
    Boat Model and Year:
    1972 18' Hydrodyne
    Ski Team:
    Former Hodag Water shows
    Brian at the speeds these boats operate at that minor hook is nothing. It will even help slightly to get on plane. If I had a hook that small in my Venom I would be concerned. If I had a hook 2x that size on my Dyne it would save me the cost of transom wedges.
     
  3. BEFU-Brian

    BEFU-Brian Established Hydrodyner

    Joined:
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    Location:
    Columbia city, IN by Fort Wayne
    Boat Model and Year:
    86 Formula 272LS, 1963 17' Hydrodyne custom deluxe
    Yeah, I agree. Will be weird to operate a boat without power trim tabs, power tilt on outdrive, and only one set of controls!

    Friday I started cutting holes in the transom. all of the wood that came out of it did not show any air pockets, so that was good news. Once I get the holes all drilled and cleaned up, I have some penetrating epoxy I am going to coat them in. This is the stuff that is really thin and designed to soak into wood to seal it, or soak into rotted wood and rebuild it. I feel sealing it with the penetrating epoxy will just be a good extra step to preserving the new transom. After that, I will coat it with laminating epoxy before starting to install the hardware.

    The problem now is I find myself just stopping and staring at the bottom on this thing. It really did turn out nice, especially considering the problem I had with the first Bondo application. next week I hope to start putting the urethane white paint on. That will really tell what this thing will look like.
     
  4. kevinb

    kevinb Elite Hydrodyner

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    Sep 10, 2006
    Messages:
    459
    Location:
    Brookfield, WI
    Boat Model and Year:
    1985 HD 20' I/O 350 (Yep I/O Boat #2 of maybe7?)
    Ski Team:
    NA
    When all is said and done, are you really going to turn this boat over to the kids to beat the living daylights out of it?:):(:eek:
     
  5. kevinb

    kevinb Elite Hydrodyner

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    Location:
    Brookfield, WI
    Boat Model and Year:
    1985 HD 20' I/O 350 (Yep I/O Boat #2 of maybe7?)
    Ski Team:
    NA
    Maybe a better perspective would be to have them do some of the moderate to heavy lifting on your project (or maybe you have had them involved) to make them respect the process and what it will take if they mess it up. If my dad only knew how hard we drove his boat as teens....
     
  6. BEFU-Brian

    BEFU-Brian Established Hydrodyner

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    Location:
    Columbia city, IN by Fort Wayne
    Boat Model and Year:
    86 Formula 272LS, 1963 17' Hydrodyne custom deluxe
    Absolutely!!! and they will help maintain it. And fix it.

    They have worked on it quite a bit so far. Tearing the old core out. Cleaning it. Helping put the new core in. Move it around. Once I get the bottom painted and have it flipped back over, it will be back at home and they will have more to do with it. A bit more ownership I hope. That and after being out in one with 700 HP, running a small boat with 130 that stands out where ever they are, might take some of the spunk out of them. Maybe wishful thinking on my part.
     
  7. tj309

    tj309 Composite Specialist

    Joined:
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    Location:
    LA (lower Alabama)
    Boat Model and Year:
    1972 18' Hydrodyne
    Ski Team:
    Former Hodag Water shows
    At least you are making them do some grunt work to enjoy the fruit off all your and their's labor. Its one thing to take Dad's shiny new car out vs taking the joint shiny new project out. I still can't believe some of the stuff I did with my dad's prized possession - his first brand new car. Well I did want to know how fast it would go and the answer for a '70 Buick Estatewagon with the 455 in it is 137. The speedometer only went up to 120 so I had to estimate the needle position past 120.
     
  8. kgtrickey

    kgtrickey New Hydrodyner

    Joined:
    Aug 1, 2012
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    Location:
    Decatur, Alabama
    Boat Model and Year:
    18 I/O Hydodyne 1975
    Ski Team:
    Club Not Active Now
    You have drivers seat
     
  9. BEFU-Brian

    BEFU-Brian Established Hydrodyner

    Joined:
    Jan 29, 2015
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    Location:
    Columbia city, IN by Fort Wayne
    Boat Model and Year:
    86 Formula 272LS, 1963 17' Hydrodyne custom deluxe
    Update: Started painting the bottom of the boat! So, I was using the Totalboat total protect bottom primer to help seal the glass of this thing. First gallon was really thick, but I rolled it on. Wasn't going to get four full coats on the underwater part, so I ordered another gallon as I figure I will use the extra to seal the inside of the boat also after all the glass work is done. (Polyester resin is not the best at preventing water migration into the core). Well, the new gallon was much thinner than the first one. So my smooth bottom definitely has too much texture from the roller application, even after sanding. I didn't want to sand too much, as I am removing all the ceramic protection in the bottom paint primer. So I am hoping the urethane will fill it in some, which it appears to be doing. So on Monday afternoon I tried my hand at my first attempt of roll and tip paint application. Couple of things for those of you who try this. If you forget to get some good quality foam rollers, do NOT use the included nap roller to apply the urethane. Wow, fuzzy's galore! But I pressed on knowing that it recommends 2 or 3 coats minimum with sanding between coats. With my semi smooth surface, I figure I am doing four coats minimum. But it does go on pretty good, it tips easily and the only thing you have to do is keep moving and do NOT put on too much paint. Since it self levels, it will run if too heavy. Really roll it out thin.

    So, how I would do this again: I would still use the totalboat totalprotect product. But I would thin it the 5% before applying with the roller. I would also tip this product while rolling to help smooth out the roller texture. I think that really would have helped.

    The totalboat topside urethane does look nice and flows out. Plan on at least three layers though, can't believe two would be enough unless you are going over previously painted surfaces. One layer you see the color changes, the second layer really makes it look more like a white gloss surface. Sand with the 220 between coats, it helps smooth it out even more. Give it plenty of drying time, it needs it being a one part urethane.

    So yesterday I got the second coat on the half of the boat I had already done, and a first coat on the rest of the white. This mornign it looks pretty nice, the second coat really makes a differnce. It is cool and wet here now, so I am going to give it two days to harden and then sand it for another coat on Thursday. Excited to see what that makes the bottom look like. Trying to get the bottom done first where it will rest on the bunks so it has a solid week to dry before I flip it back over. Would even like to bake it some if the sun ever comes back out. My fear is it will set into the bunk carpet and the trailer will stick to the bottom of the boat when launched!
    IMG_5175.JPG IMG_5176.JPG
     
  10. BEFU-Brian

    BEFU-Brian Established Hydrodyner

    Joined:
    Jan 29, 2015
    Messages:
    154
    Location:
    Columbia city, IN by Fort Wayne
    Boat Model and Year:
    86 Formula 272LS, 1963 17' Hydrodyne custom deluxe
    So the other part I made progress on is cutting the transom. All the holes are in. The main opening needs to be sanded out with a drum and then sealed. I have been debating whether or not to put the hole liners back in. They cut the transom hole larger and then glassed in this plastic circle it seams. It does not support the transom assembly, but it does help locate it I guess. But really, the six bolts do that. To install it, I would need to cut away more good wood and then fill in the gap with glass. They just puttied in the gap with thickened polyester resin back then, as it chipped and pulled off the plastic ring where it was still attached. Not sure why this was done, but it was the first outdrive assembly used. It does not need it for strength, this transom is plenty strong. Same construction as my 272 Formula, wouldn't have a concern about a 350 in front of this transom. The rest of the boat I would, but not the transom! So right now I am leaning towards using a drum sander to smooth out the rough cut, round the edges and seal it. Drill some small holes into the cut surface to allow the penetrating epoxy to soak in better. That will also reinforce the wood where the bolts go through which will help prevent the wood from compressing with time. Once the wood compresses, any glass work that was sealing that cur surface will not compress and the surface will fracture free. Then you have an opportunity for water to soak in if the seal is compromised or something leaks. Either way, not good.

    I also had some pretty serious delamination on the deck above the transom. I have made this solid from the inside, but the delaminated glass and gelcoat needed to be removed. The edges will be sealed with resin and then Bondo used to fill them in and smooth them out. It is solid, but that was a pretty bad cosmetic blemish I did not want to deal with causing paint to flex, crack and peel.

    Pictures show the glass layup of the new transom as well as the original plastic "finish ring" that was in there. Transom shield needs to be cleaned up and painted before being installed. Actually, I think that might be from my spare drive train.... need to check. IMG_5177.JPG IMG_5178.JPG IMG_5181.JPG
     

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