Tom and I have discussed the idea of building a custom twenty footer with a cool perimeter seating arrangement. It could hold a ton of people and now the big block 225's and 250's really make sense. I believe it would outperform most of the high performance inboards and haul more too. These boats do not have to be bare bones team boats. They would make really cool "big family boats". The twenty is a foot wider than an 18 and I think it would be well balanced with the big motors. A boat like that would be "one of a kind" and be a real attention getter in my opinion. The most desirable twenty (to me) would be one with the hull cut down, the helm moved forward, and a deck like an 18. I have been told that the sides would be too low and it would take on water. Those comments really inspire me to do it. jim
I think that sounds like a great family ski boat. With only one motor, I don't think you would have to worry too much about taking on water over the deck. As it is, the deck on Tom's boat only has about 3" of rise, and it's angled, so if the water wanted to get over now, it would. If it's possible to move the helm forward for this, could it be done for all 20's? That would help reduce the amount of bow weight required a little bit, and leave more room for the gangline guys. Of course, we come close to sinking the boat as it is when it's full of gangline guys so.... maybe that's not the best idea.
It would require a new fore deck to move the helm forward. The group you mentioned is standing up not seated. I am looking for max weight forward, max seating, and max room for all the gear. I think a fuel tank with a little different shape and mounted as far forward as possible would help with balance and storage. I have thought about having one made that sort of conforms to the shape of the bow. I don't need such a boat, so it probably won't happen. jim
That would be a very cool addition to the Dyne line-up. It would be great if someone could come up with a sketch of it. Daniel
I like the idea of a shaped tank for the bow. My guess is that it would be significantly more than the standard rectangular plastic tank. One bonus is that you would probably have to go with stainless though. I'm starting to envision a centered helm forward of the main seating area.
For a family boat, I had in mind making the fore deck about the length of the 18 or slightly shorter. A fairly narrow drivers seat with an L shaped observers seat that the "L" going all the way back to the full bench seat in the stern, and then continuing back up to the drivers seat for full perimeter seating. Leave enough room between the observers seat back and the fore deck to pile all of the equipment bags and some life jackets. You could even have a removable island out in the middle with a ski rack and provisions for hanging tow ropes. The after deck should be short and have a minimum splash well or no well at all, and have a slightly rounded contour with no cleats or grab rails. I thought I had found a 20 that needed a floor and transom which would be a candidate to have the hull cut down and shortened to build such a boat. I would cut the rear "wings" off too. The prototype was going to have a plywood deck just like the early 18"s. I don't think I really want to start this project. jim
I think I would make the "turtle deck" or instrument cluster removable so you don't have to stand on your head to wire and install instruments. jim
Jim, Love the idea!! I'd like to think that this would be my next boat. Like airplanes, it's difficult to design a ship that will be all things to all people, but I like the balanced approach in your design. The boat sounds versatile (just please leave room on the transom for a "twin" option). Cheers, Kevin
So with shortening/removing the splashwell, are you thinking of moving the oil tank and battery to the front? Or still leaving just enough space for them under the splashwell? Indeed, there is more than enough room back there now for a single (gets a bit tight in triples through ). You could possibly do a hinged plate over the dash that all the gauges mount to. Just swing it up to work on the gauges, and swing back down to play!
