Rigging the new Dyne. Opinions on the dash? Re-using old gauges, but would like the opportunity to go to I-command without a crapload of extra holes. Also, trying to keep the number of holes to a minimum for structural integrity. So, three - 4" gauges across the top (currently would be two tachs and an airguide - future just 3 large multi function I-commands). Lower left of the gauge pod is the trim gauges (future two small). Now, here is where I start wondering... Lower right of gauge pod is the fuel gauge (could be mounted under the deck on a piece of stainless sheet to avoid an extra hole), bottom far left is the switch panel (bilge, lights, etc...) and again, could be mounted below deck to avoid a really large hole, and bottom far right (on the 45 degree corner) is the key switch bank mounted vertically (and this also could be mounted below to avoid a large hole in an already high load area). When I rigged my 18', I mounted the key and switches below as mentioned, and really like it. Thoughts? Opinions?
3 large gauges across the top as high as you can get them. Mount your steering helm where comfortable. Then put the two trim gauges below the large gauges in a location where you can see them over/around the steering wheel. I don't see them doing much good if they are lower left. I would then mount two single BRP key switches (or the double if you have it already) on the left of the wheel or lower right of the wheel. I would not mount anything on the angle. Fuel gauge also up on the gauge cluster. The less holes you drill through the thick lower stuff the better IMO.
Hard to see in the picture, but the trim gauges are drawn in at the lower left of the gauge pod, and fuel is at the lower right of the gauge pod (just below the 3 big gauges). Is that what you were referring to?
Regardless of the electronic gauges, I would want water pressure gauges in plain sight. It is the life blood of the engine. But, that's just old conservative me. jim
That probably would have saved us a few trips to the dealer last year to remove sand and metal shavings from the water pump on a brand new engine.
There is an A/D converter for the I-Command gauges so you can use water pressure as an input into the NMEA network then create a new page on the gauge for water pressure so you don't need separate gauges.
Right. But we don't have the I-commands for the boat with the issue last year, or this one. Hence, my desire to get them soon! And keep the number of holes to a minimum now.