Re: My shiny new 1971 Dyne Mark, Found those grab handles in Overton's Master Catalog. They are as follows: #31929 24" Stainless Handrail $34.99, #31928 18" $29.99, and #31018 12" $24.99. Call them up and order what you need. 1-800-334-6541. Greg
Re: My shiny new 1971 Dyne Mark, I've got one new one here that Greg gave me. If that will help out, it's yours... Bob
Re: My shiny new 1971 Dyne Bob That would be great. I appreciate it. I'd love to see your boat so perhaps we can set something up. I'm going to be going full steam here trying to finish this boat up. I've had a set back with the carpet but hope to get that resolved quickly.
Re: My shiny new 1971 Dyne Mark, I'm sure you'll figure out what's wrong. Let me know when you're in the clear and we'll get together..... Bob
Re: My shiny new 1971 Dyne Just got back from a trip to Vegas to find out that our twin that was supposed to get new counter-rotating motors got both right hand rotators. So my old dinged up black SST prop was taken back for the twin, and replaced with a shiny new 17 pitch Viper. Any body have any experience with the Vipers? I am curious to see how it performs compared to the SST that was on there before. Even though I didn't get a chance to really test it well yet. I also just got a 19 pitch Rebel that needs some serious testing. I still want to get down to a 16 pitch though. I may end up trading in the 17 pitch viper for a 16. It looks like there are 16's available as SST or Viper. Can any one confirm this?
Re: My shiny new 1971 Dyne Mercury marine has a pretty good prop design section on their site. After reading it and my own experience I say that you need a prop with minimum rake, no cup in the tip or outer trailing edge, and proper blade area and pitch for you motor. Minimum rake will reduce the tendency for the stern to "dig in" at the start, lack of cup in the outer portions of the prop will do the same. If you can find a really good prop shop, I would ask about extra cup in the very inner portion of the trailing edge to help lift the stern. I have no experience with this, but I have heard of it. It may be BS too. Maybe we should start a new thread for a prop discussion. jim
Re: My shiny new 1971 Dyne Jim, Are there any current props that are close to what you have described? I would guess the closer it is at the start, the cheaper it will be to modify. I can't seem to find any useful descriptions of the Evinrude props. Just the marketing BS that they feed you, and they are all pretty close to the same. Excellent hole shot and superior top end!!!! None of them mention anything about cup or rake.
Re: My shiny new 1971 Dyne If you read the Merc page on prop design, I think you can evaluate them by looking at them. Rake and cup are easy to see. It is difficult in the pictures because you need a profile view of the prop to see the rake (sweep back). In the pictures, the Rebel looks the best to me out of the BRP props. The Mirage and the Vengeance look the best in the pictures in the Merc props. Pictures can be deceiving though. I can't tell about the blade area. The Merc prop section does mention these things. When they say a prop has bow lift, that means that it will push the stern down which is not good for a ski boat. A prop that brags about speed usually has bow lift. You don't have to limit yourself to BRP props. Merc prop hubs can be modified to fit with a 3/4 inch masonry drill bit and a drill press. It is possible to remove the cup from a stainless prop and I am going to be doing that soon. I am told that they lay a piece of rawhide on the pitch block, heat the blade and gently hammer it out. I think if you invest the money in a custom prop you will never go back. I know I won't. jim
