I've read some stuff on the internet that says to use 3M spray glue. That certainly sounds easy. The downside of using the glue that I know will work is that it is harder to get off when you go to replace the carpet. That's my understanding, anyway. My wife insists that I'm being too picky. She thinks the carpet looks fine. From my perspective, I didn't come this far to accept linear bubbles in the carpet so if they don't settle down as the glue dries - by tonight - I'm going to use acetone to pull it up. My boat guy seems to think that this will not hurt the carpet and it can then be re-installed. We'll see. If I share all my mistakes here I can hopefully help others avoid them - although I'm still not entirely sure that I understand what I did wrong. My belief is that I used too much cement. I started out using less and then decided I wasn't using enough. In the area where I didn't use as much glue it looks better....
Hi Mark: Sorry to hear of your carpet setback. I would start over also if it were my boat and the same circumstances. I had no problems with the Dap contact cement bubbling with the aquaturf product that I used. It almost sounds like the carpet chemically reacted with the curing solvents of the contact cement. I put enough cement down to provide a good tac bed (similar to a good coat of varnish), laid down the carpet, and started rolling it out with the J roller from the centerlin to the sides of the hull. Came out very tight and seamless. I don't know what the acetone will do to the carpet and glue but I hope it does not cause harm th your resin glass work on the floor. You may want to do a test area before doing the larger area. Best of luck, Kevin-
Kevin Oddly enough, when I got home, fairly late last night, I went out just to look at it - just to engage in some supplemental fretting - and, low and behold, it was a smooth as could be. All of the bubbles had vanished and the carpet was generally tight and looked great. The only thing I can think of is that I perhaps used too much glue, and when the glue set the carpet settled back down. In any event, it was a pleasant surprise. My boat guy still thinks I should have used the other type of glue but I did some research on the internet and the reason that neoprene cement is recommended is that it is much easier to remove when you put in new carpet, which is an inexpensive way to give your boat a face lift every few years or so. The other type of glue has to be actually ground off, whereas the neoprene cement can be removed with some acetone. I think I'll take a shot at putting the carpet in the footwell later today. Then I will post a couple pictures. Thanks again for all your help! MarkBano
Ok Done. Here are the pictures to prove it. Thanks for the help Kevin and Jim! Once the fuel tank is in, I will cut a bulkhead board for the front of the footwell, cover it with carpet, and install it behind the fuel tank to hide the tank and help hold it in place. MarkBano
It does look higher. It might be the angle, mine sits right on top of the bump from the bottom hull. Daniel
Mark, I installed a board the same way that you are speaking about on mine. If you get together with Bob check it for some ideas to do yours. Maybe Bob can take some photos for you. Greg
I just went out and checked my floor. It looks about the same height as yours. My boat has foam on both sides of the tank to help with flotation, and hold the tank. jim
I think the picture just illustrates how high the floor is, or how low the boat is, or whatever. It is really not a boat but rather a sled and this really hits home when you have no seats in there and you look across the floor. The new floor is exactly where the original was. This is why I'm still struggling with how I am going to mount the seats to keep them as low as possible. I plan to use some minimal expanding foam around the tank. The regular expanding foam could squeeze the plastic tank.