Finally - The BanoDyne is back....

For those of you who no longer believed I actually owned the boat anymore (I was beginning to wonder myself) - ...Enjoy the photos!


Let the rigging begin!

Mark

 

It looks great, Mark. I am sure you are happy with that. Does your motor have Smart Craft controls by any chance?

Since you are going with hydraulic steering, you could route the cables and wiring forward and down through the splash well instead of to the side. Have you considered that? It is kind of a cool look to me and clean looking also.

jim

 

As I posted in another thread, some of the hot boat guys are using bulkhead fittings in their hydraulic steering hoses, so all that is visible is the short hose from the deck or splash well to the cylinder.

jim

 

WOW, looks fantastic, can't wait to see it rigged and all set up.
Rob

 

Thanks guys!

I need to check but I'm pretty sure that I bought 14' hoses for the steering and they are just barely long enough. I might see if I can exchange them for 16' hoses. I'm not 100% sure I know what you mean with regard to the steering. My splash well has two holes for cables. One is a 3" round hole on the starboard side and one is a 3x4" square hole on the forward end of the splash well, opposite the motor, but it is not in the middle - rather it is also more toward the starboard side. The square hole is where the battery cables used to come through. There is very little space inside the forward deck ridge in front of the splash well so I don't think it would be possible to run too much stuff through that area - particularly if you want to try to make the 90 degree turn towards the motor. There's only a few inches of space in that sub-deck area just forward of the splash well. I'll take some better pictures at some point so you can see where the current rigging holes are.

The motor is set up for smartcraft digital guages but I'm not using them due to the fact that they are expensive and require the operator to toggle between different digital parameters. I'd rather have separate guages for each function. The more sophisticated stuff, like fuel burn data, etc. which is available through smartcraft I would not get with standard guages, obviously. I will also be adding an OEM smartcraft warning light guage that will be mounted somewhere just to the right of the steering wheel. That will provide the warnings if any of the important parameters are out of normal range. I don't have that guage yet. I think I am going to have my dealer install that for me as part of the final set-up.

I'm also still trying to decide what to do about a driver's seat. The original seat has been the object of much attention over the last month, as it is getting repainted and recovered. Still not sure if I'll use it because it is a different seat than the new ones that I had made (you can sort of see them in the pictures, above). My old seat is far more comfortable than the new ones so I might use it even though it doesn't match the other three. We'll see...

Seating arrangement is also still up in the air. The big issue is whether to mount the front passenger seat facing backwards. Or possibly I could install two mounting bases so that it can be put in facing either forward or backward.... Ideas?

I'm having trouble finding a seat base for the new seats that is low profile enough to work. That remains a problem as well. Also, while I was able to test fit the new Airguides in the holes after a bit of work with a honing wheel on a drill to grind off the paint that was in the holes, my Faria instruments still will not fit. The grinding wheel doesn't seem to work for grinding the wood in the instrument holes so I need to find a way to make those holes just slightly larger without damaging the panel. Ah.... The fun of a restoration...

 

Mark,

Put some masking tape over the instrument holes, then cut the tape out in the holes with a sharp knife or razor blade. This will help protect the finish around the edges. I would guess that a fairly large diameter cylindrical shaped sander on a drill motor would get you a fairly round hole. I paint the wood in the hole or seal it somehow, I have used 5200 and aluminum foil too.

You could mount bulkhead fittings on the starboard wall of you splash well for the hydraulic lines. Your 14 footers would probably reach that far. Then run short hoses out to the steering cylinder. It would be a clean looking installation.

I like to see wiring and hoses inside the covers that look like shop vac hose (or covers made from Sunbrella with zippers) leading to fittings where they go through the deck and motor, (Although mine is not done that way, I have learned a lot since they did mine.)

jim

 

Mark,
One suggestion I will make for your steering hoses which we have done on all of our team boats: Go to Napa and have them make you hoses. They are far more durable and you can do the bulkhead fitting setup easily with their hoses. My rigging partner who is an airplane wrench and owns Beaver Aviation at UNU gets them made up for us an can give you the part numbers for the fittings. These hoses will not kink like Sea Star hoses can.

The Bulkhead setup allows you to run the two hoses from the helm to a fitting which goes through your splashwell. You then have two more short hoses that run from the other side of the bulkhead fitting to your steering cylinder. This means your hoses do not have to run through a rigging grommet and run the risk of getting pinched or the chafing back and forth as you turn.

 

For the seat bases, I would go with a low profile locking swivel base for both front seats if you go with the bucket seats. I think they even make them with sliders.

Check out this site, and there are many others:

http://www.reddenmarine.com/site/ne...&counter=0&letter=&category=0&subcategory=884

 

Here is a cool looking one if you need the slide. I think I would put the slide on the bottom though, if that is possible:

http://www.amazon.com/UNIVERSAL-TRA...=UTF8&s=sporting-goods&qid=1175528492&sr=1-43

jim

 

Jim

I like the second one you listed, as it is only 3" tall. I can't go any taller than that if possible or it will be too high. I might order that one.

I like Must-Ski's idea of having new lines made. I still can't picture the set-up you guys are describing. I'd probably need to see a picture of it. I know that there are two lines going to either side of the cylinder, but I don't understand exactly how the set-up you are describing changes things. Either way, you need a separate line to each side of the cylinder, correct? I guess what you must be referring to is a set-up where one line doesn't need to go all the way across to the far side but rather two lines come out of the forward part of the well directly to either side of the cylinder. I've rigged exactly zero hydraulic steering systems in my life so I'm just not quite sure. Any help you guys can give me to do this set-up the way you are suggesting would be great. I want to do it the best way possible.

Thanks again!