Hi guys, so... going along with the oddities of my "big-foot" boat. (hmmm, that might be a fitting name! So, now that the motor is running like a top and I have "some" electrical items such as the lights working correctly, My sight is on the tilt feature. I think the wiring is all messed up as one of the large wires off the pump is literally running straight to the pump. My question (for now) is about the pistons on the outdrive. I only have one hose on the piston. It can't be a "float down" piston because there's not a hydraulic valve to release the pressure, it's done by an electric motor. The motor appears to be reversible, so if my thought is correct, the pump pushes fluid in to raise, but sucks it out to lower? With only one hose on each piston, and using an electric motor, it must be done this way, right? Secondly.... If anyone knows how this relay should be wired, please let me know. It's not like most relays on the newer systems. Yes, the wire with the bolt is directly bolted to the pump motor bypassing the relay. (not my work) But this relay should need the main power feed, two main outputs for the motor, and the up/down pair of wires coming from the switch to feed 12v+ for up and down. (and maybe a chassis ground for the relay. In the relay photo, the left main lug has the 12v+ going forward to the switch and a jumper wire heading to the main 12v+ starter lug as a power feed. The RT main relay lug has the blue feed wire going to the pump motor. The main green wire from the pump is bolted to the switch wire harness (green wire from the switch is down, and blue is up) On the small "switching lugs" you have the blue wire on the left which is "up" from the switch and on the RT is the main pump ground and a jumper wire going to the 12v- on the battery. I just see no way how this would work properly like this. Right now, I have a noise when the up position is tried, but none for down. Maybe the relay is doing weird things, but I know that the green wire off the switch was never designed to bypass the relay. The pump motor "might be" stuck too, but I know the 12v+ at the switch is good. My next step is to bypass the relay and try the pump without the relay, but any insight would be VERY helpful!