Gentlemen, and of course Ladies, after hovering for a year or so, I'm finally coming out, so to speak. From reading the forum I feel like I know Daniel, Jim, and especially Mr. Banovetz, who I've been emailing on the side for some time now. Main reason I stayed offline is I didn't really want to join in sans boat, but as of 3 weeks ago, that's no longer the case. I have secured a 1970 or so 18 foot outboard from a friends ctg area parking lot. This boat sat in the lot, uncovered and with no engine for many years. Given the grass found inside when I went I went to pick it up, I figured a full "Bano" would likely be in order, but happily that is not the case. Bottom (it has no stringer floor) and transom are sound, so the bulk of the work will be upper deck, which took a tree hit a few years back weakening and cracking it somewhat, but not so much that it's destoyed. I'll post a few shots when I get a chance, but let me ask an ID question to get things rolling. The previous owner, who I believe is the original owner says it's a 1970, and based on the no floor and other signs, I have no reason to doubt him. In cleaning it out, I found no evidence of a plate or serial number on the boat. The previous owner said "As far as a plate, there never was one and I believe that in 1970 it was not required of the manufacturer but not certain of this. There is no serial number on the Vessel Title and I do not ever recall seeing one on the hull." Could it be this one is so early it didn't have a serial number in the hull or a registration plate attached?
Welcome to Hydrodyners. You have a double layer early boat. Take care with any fasteners into the hull from the inside. The balsa grain runs fore and aft in that hull. If water gets in it can propagate fairly easily. It must be a well built one to have survived intact this long. The Coast guard requirement for the ID number stamped on the outside of the transom came into existance some time in the early 70's. It seems to coincide with the introduction of the stringer boats. Prior to that most Dynes had a number inside the boat. Some of them were taped over and painted over the tape!!! It would not surprise me if it has no number. I suggest that you call Tom Miller and ask him about the number. He might remember. Ab Crosy would remember if you can find him. Tom has his number. I will be glad to help you any way I can. Let me know. What do you plan to power it with? jim edit: sp
Check under the rear deck to the left on the transom. Should be an aluminum plate with the # on it. Thats where I've seen them on the older ones around here that I've worked on.
Jim; good info as always, thanks. You and Mark have both mentioned the fasteners in the Hull danger, but not to worry, any hull attachements will be made via fiberglass to fiberglass, nothing will be pentetrating that intact core. Curiuosly, even the original plywood seat stays that were fiberglassed in are in remarkably good shape considering the swamp that was there, although to be fair, the boat was tilted up a bit where stored, and did seem to drain out through the rear hole, keeping the water level low, which may have spared the seat stays. I've emailed Mr. Crosby, but no reply yet. Sounds like I should ping Tom as well? Power wise I'm not sure. I have a 150 carb Merc in the garage at the cottage, sitting since I repowered my other boat (an 19ft Checkmate). Curiously, it's very similar to the one Mark took off his boat. I bought it new, so I know it's history, and my 11 year old is lobbying hard to keep it in the family. While it's not a long term solution, it is paid for. I have nothing against other brands, but Merc has served me well, and the local guy I use when I have to is a Merc guy (although moving towards Suzuki). Ashley; thanks for the tip, I attached my shot of the left and right "under" transom, and as you can see, no plate. I've went over most of this boat since my clean up last weekend with no success. I'll keep looking though. Any other tips welcomed...Mike.
Mike, If your motor is a 2.5 liter, I would consider it a long term solution. That is one of the best motors that merc ever built. I have a friend with a building full of parts for them. ANY new motor will be heavier. And the 18 is sensitive to stern weight because of the 6 ft beam. Please post the model and serial number and maybe a picture showing the trim rams and tell me how many trim rams it has. If it is a 2.4 it is possible that you have a light weight mid section which couldl be the basis for a very light weight hybrid motor with a 2.4 mid and a 2.5 power head. It could be a 150, 175 or 200. They all weigh about the same. The bigger motors have more top end and a little less bottom end power. Using the 2:1 ratio 150 lower unit they would all be a potent motor that would pull your arms off. In my opinion, only the ski teams need the 200+ big block motors and they are actually are a problem for a family boat because of the weight. A good 2.4 could be all you need. I am trying to give your best options in my view. Some of the older 150's are 2.0 liters also. They are heavier because of the thicker sleeves. This could be a fun project. Regards, jim Edit: The serial number could be under some of that foam!!
It already is fun Jim ;-) 150hp S# 06635806, Model# MER 1150725 Man Year: 1984 Description: 2.0L Good point on the "under the foam". I'll check this weekend which sadly will be my last opportunity for this year as we're closing up the cottage. Of course that give me the Winter to plan, plan, plan!
I am pretty sure that motor has a 2:1 ratio lower unit. I will check, but I think you could mount a fresh 2.5 power head on it with a 2.5 tuner and have a great ski motor. I think the plate between the motor and the mid section would have to be replaced also. The motor would be lighter and have more torque by quite a bit. Or you could sell it and buy a used 2.5. An XR-6 is a great one. I know of one in FL and I will check out the price and shipping if you like. The 2.0 might be all you need depending on how many barefooters you want to pull. jim
