1963? Hydrodyne custome deluxe 1700 restoration thread

Discussion in 'Restoration Projects & Questions' started by BEFU-Brian, Feb 10, 2015.

  1. tj309

    tj309 Composite Specialist

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    1972 18' Hydrodyne
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    Former Hodag Water shows
    If you plan on having a depth gauge mount the sender before you put the core in as senders do not work thru cores. What I did was remove 4 squares from the core before I installed it leaving a 2" x 2" square hole. Then I installed the sender and then glassed it all in.
     
  2. jim

    jim Hydrodyne 18 Specialist

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    77 Dyne 18 I/O converted to Outboard
    Mine works through the core.

    jim
     
  3. tj309

    tj309 Composite Specialist

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    Former Hodag Water shows
    When I put a sender in my Venom I was told the best place was for it to read thru the pad which is the only cored part of a Venom. It works extremely intermittently. When I got the depth gauge and transducer for the Dyne the instructions specifically said the transducer would not work on a cored hull. Hence my small hole in the core. Better safe than sorry.
     
  4. BEFU-Brian

    BEFU-Brian Established Hydrodyner

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    Columbia city, IN by Fort Wayne
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    86 Formula 272LS, 1963 17' Hydrodyne custom deluxe
    I hadn't even thought far enough ahead to think about a transducer, but I can see wanting one. I added one to my Formula last year but never played with getting it calibrated the one time I got out to test motors. I will play with a location, probably around or behind where I put the battery mount. Guess that means I need to make sure I have my stringers designed also so I leave the core out in a place I will be able to use.

    Also makes me think about leaving a small recess in the core for a bilge pump place. A small well for water to flow into, this 5 degree bottom is pretty flat. Water easily collects in one spot when you have a 24 degree Vee bottom at the transom. Leave the core out, reinforce it with a few extra layers of glass, will be fine for a small 2" x 2" area for the transducer or a larger 3" to 4" area for a bilge pump.
     
  5. jim

    jim Hydrodyne 18 Specialist

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    tj, how was it mounted to the pad area?

    jim
     
  6. tj309

    tj309 Composite Specialist

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    Former Hodag Water shows
    Brian - I was going to leave a small area at the transom for a bilge pump but I forgot when I laid the core back there.

    Jim - I used the supplied slow-set epoxy. I mounted the transducer inside the boat above the pad.
     
  7. jim

    jim Hydrodyne 18 Specialist

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    I don't remember what the instructions say, but if you will kind of "roll" it into the epoxy or silicone to help eliminate any bubbles it will work best.

    jim
     
  8. tj309

    tj309 Composite Specialist

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    Former Hodag Water shows
    Yes - that is exactly what I did.
     
  9. BEFU-Brian

    BEFU-Brian Established Hydrodyner

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    Boat Model and Year:
    86 Formula 272LS, 1963 17' Hydrodyne custom deluxe
    Made some progress last night cutting with my 14 YO son. he worked on the floor in back while I worked on getting the seat base closer to be removed. The seat base went well until I got up by the vertical toe kick in front of the seat area. I have found that the 1" lip does go all the way around this thing, which is good considering the air it entraps is part of the flotation. The hard part of this is at the top of the toe kick, it goes horizontal for 2" and then back down to form a lip. The 1" flange is flat to the hull and after a few layers of fiberglass matt, it is hard to see the joint. But it is there and the easiest way I found to separate it was with a fiber cut off wheel on the dremel. I just cut into the joint area holding the cut off wheel at about a 45 degree angle. Often times the wheel would find a thin air void where the molded lip was sitting against the hull side. This is where the lower quality layups of the 60's help. Now days, they would either use a bolding agent to first hold the seat base in and then glass over the joint, or they would put matt down first and press the molded seat base into that and glass the joint. Either of those would make it just about impossible to remove the seat base without destroying it. As it is, the assembly of these does make it possible to remove it, restore it and then put it back in better than when made.

    In the attached picture you can see the dremel cuts about an inch off the glass joint line. Hard to tell in the picture, but there is a small ridge there you can see up close. I need to go another two inches further here, then I will cut the piece right across just behind the top ridge. Of course this will compromise the air tight structure, but I mentioned earlier this will be filled with urethane flotation foam to bring it up to current USCG flotation standards.

    IMG_2481.JPG
     
  10. wentworthto1

    wentworthto1 Hydrodyner

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    1961 Hydrodyne I/O BB70
    Hey Brian, it's been a long while since I've been on this site. I restored my '61 and replaced the core and everything! Your posts bring back a lot of memories! Just wanted to let you know that behind the vertical toe kick you will find a hollow cavity but it is not air tight. Look at the back of the seat base in the middle and you should see a 1/4 inch hole where a rubber plug goes. It would be right in front of the middle stringer. The seat base is hollow too with only a few pieces of plywood cut to support it. From the seat base all the way to the bow, it is hollow. I didn't remove the toe kick because the balsa core only extends to the toe kick in a triangular formation. A lot of people told me to leave the keel boards alone, but I removed them and kept them as templates and used heartwood white oak to make new ones. It took a lot of careful planing and trimming, but it worked out just fine. You can find a few pictures of my work in the pics and restoration section
     

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