1972 Keel Up Restoration

My straight 6 mercs with 19" props launch as you describe. It almost gets airborne. V6's wouldn't look as good, but it would accelerate even faster. Build it light. You will not regret spending a little extra once you take a ride.

 

The 1st of 3 plys of the coosa transom got installed to stiffen up things a bit but still keep the hull light enough for 2 non-Atlas guys to flip it for a 4 man hour sanding marathon.

 

Then back in the shop for the rest of the transom. I laminated 2 1/2" coosa panels and installed them with screws and clamps to the 1 coosa panel already there. I used small blocks of wood and wax paper and drywall screws to suck the bottom of the transom in.

 

I then temporarily installed the deck for alignment and to hold the proper hull shape per advice from this forum and installed the 1" thick motorwell sides. Note the deck cut-outs for the wide twin rig option.

 

I built a well out of scrap coosa to contain the 3/4" plywood skeg mount. Then glassed it in.

 

While I was waiting for resin to dry I installed PVC rigging holders in the deck. Jim suggested 2 but I went one better just to be sure. They are adhered with fiberglass filler and at a later point will be covered with fiberglass cloth when the deck is vertical to totally secure them. Also note the 2 plywood spacers aft for temporary deck installation for alignment.

 

Next up is the Divinycell core installation!

 

If you look at the modern 18 splash well you will see that it does not have the "cut out" at the front of the splash well. Instead, the deck line is continued across the boat. I did my rear deck that way as well. The cutout was for the tall inline sixes. The V-6 motors do not need it. At least mine doesn't. This gives more room under the rear deck and improves the lines of the boat in my opinion.

jim

 

Jim - did you do yours straight across or give it a bow to match the front of the deck? I am very intrigued by your idea and it would not be difficult at all to do. It would also give me better options for rigging hose mounts. If you look carefully at the cuts I made on the stern of the deck you will see on the starboard side I left a 5" 45 degree angle in and did not on the port side. When the deck is on the boat that 45 degree 5" corner is to mount the starboard motor's rigging hose with minimum bending of control cables. I was going to install a triangle in the center to do the same for the port motor and that is what drove the depth of the splashwell as you see it in the pic. Your idea could save me at least 4" of depth. I will certainly have to mull this over!

When the hull was flipped I set the skeg on it and it was not exactly vertical with respect to the hull - maybe 3 degrees off. I was thinking maybe covering the mounting surface of the skeg with wax paper and putting filler on the keel mounting surface and pressing the skeg into place would be a plan. Then remove the skeg, add 3M 4000series sealer and mount it with thru-bolts to the plywood plate I installed this weekend. I am really concerned about the skeg mounting as that was the failure point that caused this whole project.

 

Hi tj309:

Don't mean to be critical but the term "skeg" refers to the fin on the bottom of the gear box of the ob motor or outdrive. When ever I see the term skeg or ski pole in reference to the tracking fins on the bottom of the hull or ski pole instead of the pylon for the rope(s) it kinda chafe's me for some reason (correct terms are tracking fin, or "fins" if more than one, and/or pylon). The Tracking fins were added in the early 1970's to give the driver some relief from the skier leverage/pullout when heading down the center of the slalom course.

If your tracking fin is not plumb to 90 on the bottom of the boat, there may be some issues with torque steer. I'm not sure that 3 degrees would be noticable with hydraulic steering but if you are going ring and pinion, you might want to prep the mounting surface or shim to get in the 1 to 2 degree margin.

just my $0.02,

Kevin-