I lost the tach

We took the Dyne out today and lost the tach. Then the voltage went low. The battery is taking a charge, so it is OK.

The tach takes its signal off the rectifier on these type motors. My guru is going to order a new rectifier/regulator from Pro-Marine on Monday and it will be here Tuesday.

I will let you all know if that fixes it. I'm pretty sure it will.

jim

 

Daniel,

What year is that motor?

jim

 

Its the voltage regulator. OMC engines are notorious for them failing. Do you have nuts and star washers on your battery instead of wing nuts?


Test drove the 2008 225HO on our single rig today. they did change the gear ratio, so it is 1.71:1. It runs 58 with a 15 pitch Rebel. Might try to find a 14 pitch prop for it.

 

I agree, my manual calls it a rectifier/regulator and I will also ohm test the stator just to be sure it is not bad also.

The Mercs of that vintage do the same thing.

I think I will put elastic stop nuts on the battery like I had on the race boat.

They are going to those low numerical ratios to get more speed because those big block are limited pretty low and are red lining even with the biggest props. It is not a particularly good ski gear ratio.

jim

 

In my experience it is all about good battery connections. once corrosion starts rectifiers can blow.


Jim, the 225 HO still holds speed like a rock with the 15 Rebel on it. The problem was that with the 1.86 ratio was that there was so much power there that the bass guys had to run props into the 30 and 32 pitch range and there is just no selection in that range unless you go to ultra expensive stuff like Hydromotive, Power Tech and the merc Bravo line of props. The twin 250HOs will be here sometime in the next week or so, anxious to get them on the twin. Going to run 4 blade 15 Cyclones or 3 blade 15 Rebels on them. Ultimately though for skiing the 200HO and the regular 225 still have the 1.86 ratio and may be the best long term choice for someone who will keep the motor for a long time.

 

The stator passed the ohm test.

The connections are all clean and tight with no corrosion because I always use dielectric grease.

jim

 

It's fixed. I put it all back together with dielectric grease. The first regulator lasted 13 years, so I guess I can't complain.

It is still running a little warm at idle to I'll put the water pump kit in it. that usually fixes that.

jim

 

Must ski, have you found any difference in the wakes between the HO and the standard gearbox?

As far as gear ratios, if you want a 225HO with a normal gearbox, you can probably buy it but under a different name. My 225HO uses the 250 map, shows up on the diag printout. Not 250HO but 250. I probably would have got a normal 225 cause I like that sticker "225" except I liked the HO graphics so I got that as well. ..

I'd love to see the dyno graphs for 200HO vs 225 standard vs 225HO vs 250HO.

Normally, you don't pick up any extra low down torque when you get more horsepower out of the same block. For example, the 150 2.6 Yamaha produces more low down torque than the 225 2.6 Yamaha. Speaking to the local Evinrude rep, almost the same holds true for the small block e-tec 150 - 200's, i.e. the 150 is as strong below 4500rpm as the 175 and 200.

So unless you run a 15 inch prop on the 225HO I doubt you will get anything extra out of it for normal skiing.

Of course, you guys actually do that :hi:

My 21" Cyclone works great as I run perfect pass. If I didn't I would have tried a shorter prop by now. The motor is very quiet with this prop as it isn't revving.

Perfect Pass are going through massive changes at the moment. They keep releasing new versions, another due out in a week or so. A third revision of their new GPS technology already. I plan to order mine in about October in time for the Australian summer. Their latest is very interesting as it doesn't need a paddlewheel. I've found it hard to get a 100% satisfactory output from my paddlewheel so I'm interested in that and will move to it as soon as it is stable.

In the meantime simple old RPM mode has worked almost perfectly for me for years. On my old boat, it had trouble towing when towing say 4 men on discs at 15kph if they pulled themselves and the boat off the plane. This took a bit of doing eg two people crossing the wake. PP would sort out the revs but prop slip increased with load and so speed would fall right off. Only manually hitting the throttle would pull them back up then PP could pull back on the revs and be happy. Doesn't happen with the 21" cyclone, nothing pulls that back.

Now that I'm onto that, the cyclone feels a bit different to ski behind in some situations. For example, if you do a dock start using a decent low stretch rope, it feels like you are skiing on a chain. Everything else has some give in it but this thing just grips and pulls. No noise, no fuss, no wind up just immediate traction and acceleration. Also, when pulling out a single slalom and not watching them, I've pulled very experienced skiers used to big inboards straight over the front. Gone back and genuinely asked them if I didn't give them enough power and they think I'm joking and making fun of them or their boats. I have heaps of throttle left, motor isn't making noise or working hard and yet I've pulled them straight out the front. In the course, it isn't getting pulled back much so it doesn't have to gas much to compensate. It is nice.

Dunno what any of that has to do with losing a tach but you guys digressed first....