I don't have any problem with that except if someone is doing a search by subject they could miss some valuable information. The subject of the wedge came up in a different thread. I started a new "wedge" thread so it would be easy to find. That thread has gone off and on subject also. It happens. jim
Must ski, have you found any difference in the wakes between the HO and the standard gearbox? Greg, It seems there is a different table with the Magnum gearcase as the bullet on that case is a larger diameter. The anti cavitation plate is also a slightly different shape. I have always said that the magnum case is better for someone who is going to keep a motor for a long time as it is bulletproof. But, now BRP upgraded the lightning case so I think that is probably as durable as well As far as gear ratios, if you want a 225HO with a normal gearbox, you can probably buy it but under a different name. My 225HO uses the 250 map, shows up on the diag printout. Not 250HO but 250. I probably would have got a normal 225 cause I like that sticker "225" except I liked the HO graphics so I got that as well. .. I have never seen it in print, but have been told that the 200HO is the same as regular 225 except for gearcase and 225HO is the same as regular 250 except for gearcase. I find it hard to believe that they will continue to produce the 3.3 and the 3.4 powerheads, so I suspect all the powerheads will be 3.4 soon. The 3.4 apparently has a much more streamlined exhaust housing that is all one piece. The 2009 graphics are totally different on the HO motors, I should have mine next week. I'd love to see the dyno graphs for 200HO vs 225 standard vs 225HO vs 250HO. I have been told that the 250HO has significantly more low end. Based on speeds they are achieving on Ranger bass boats with them while maintaining great hole shot, in addition to the performance of the 250HO on the Austrailian ski racing circuit, it has to be right close to 275hp with tons of torque. Normally, you don't pick up any extra low down torque when you get more horsepower out of the same block. For example, the 150 2.6 Yamaha produces more low down torque than the 225 2.6 Yamaha. Speaking to the local Evinrude rep, almost the same holds true for the small block e-tec 150 - 200's, i.e. the 150 is as strong below 4500rpm as the 175 and 200. I have been told that the lower rpm torque curve of the 150 and 175 is the same, 200 actually has less torque in order to gain more top end. the 150 Yamahas typically had 2:1 ratios also vs 1.86:1 for the bigger 2.6 motors. 150 with 2:1 may have been the best carbureted water ski engine ever built. They run forever. So unless you run a 15 inch prop on the 225HO I doubt you will get anything extra out of it for normal skiing. Interestingly our late 2008 225HO came with the QC8WEP Iridium plugs which to this point have only be spec'ed on the 3.4L 250HO and 300. Formerly all 3.3s came with QC10WEP or PEP(platinum) Of course, you guys actually do that :hi: My 21" Cyclone works great as I run perfect pass. If I didn't I would have tried a shorter prop by now. The motor is very quiet with this prop as it isn't revving. Perfect Pass are going through massive changes at the moment. They keep releasing new versions, another due out in a week or so. A third revision of their new GPS technology already. I plan to order mine in about October in time for the Australian summer. Their latest is very interesting as it doesn't need a paddlewheel. I've found it hard to get a 100% satisfactory output from my paddlewheel so I'm interested in that and will move to it as soon as it is stable. In the meantime simple old RPM mode has worked almost perfectly for me for years. On my old boat, it had trouble towing when towing say 4 men on discs at 15kph if they pulled themselves and the boat off the plane. This took a bit of doing eg two people crossing the wake. PP would sort out the revs but prop slip increased with load and so speed would fall right off. Only manually hitting the throttle would pull them back up then PP could pull back on the revs and be happy. Doesn't happen with the 21" cyclone, nothing pulls that back. Now that I'm onto that, the cyclone feels a bit different to ski behind in some situations. For example, if you do a dock start using a decent low stretch rope, it feels like you are skiing on a chain. Everything else has some give in it but this thing just grips and pulls. No noise, no fuss, no wind up just immediate traction and acceleration. Also, when pulling out a single slalom and not watching them, I've pulled very experienced skiers used to big inboards straight over the front. Gone back and genuinely asked them if I didn't give them enough power and they think I'm joking and making fun of them or their boats. I have heaps of throttle left, motor isn't making noise or working hard and yet I've pulled them straight out the front. In the course, it isn't getting pulled back much so it doesn't have to gas much to compensate. It is nice. The 2 stroke acceleration is a more violent acceleration for lack of a better term. It comes on so fast. The Cyclone seems to lift the stern which is good for ski apps. The bigger block E-Tecs have tons of torque. The regular 225 or the 200 model HVLSC are my two choices for a motor if you were to keep them. The 200HVLSC has the 3.3L block, magnum case. Only drawback is you can only get it in white, but it is the only 20" big block with the magnum case. Otherwise you have to go to the 225DPLSC. At any rate, they are phenomenal pieces of engineering. The only reason we get HO models is because they are easier to sell. Dunno what any of that has to do with losing a tach but you guys digressed first....
I replaced the water pump impeller and it needed it. The blades had taken a pretty health "set". I have 8-10 pounds of water pressure at idle now which is where is should be with a new impeller in this motor. The pressure at high speed was still 22 even with the old impeller. The only sign this motor gives when the impeller is getting ready is a little pressure loss at idle and running just a little warmer at low speed and idle. The subsequent heat soaking is bad for the electronics which are mounted in a hot area. I think that this is a contributer to their early failure. jim
