Trailers

Trailers, and self adjusting brakes

Drum brakes on a boat trailer cannot be self adjusting. On a car, you reverse, and after you are moving back, with the brakes off, applying the brakes allows the shoes to move the slack adjuster, if there is a need for adjustment.
On a boat trailer, the brakes apply immediately upon movement, unless you have a reverse lock out solenoid, in that case, the brakes do not apply as all in reverse.
On a lot of cars, the self adjusting brakes do not really work all the well, anyway.
Disk brakes are self adjusting, but you still have to replace the brake pads, and maintain the fluid levels.

 

If it turns out you need to replace pretty much everything, look into electric brakes before you make your decision to buy. They are adjustable for how much brake you want applied vs. how much weight is in the trailer, no clunk, no leaky brake fluid, no hoses to monkey with, and some of them are self adjusting.

 

I knew I'd get a lot of good information from you guys!

It is clear that my system does not have a lockout solenoid, as there are no wires going to the DICO Model 60 actuator coupling. Since my brakes do not work, I have no idea if they lock up when you back up or not.

I have read that some trailer brakes are mechanically designed to not engage when backing up - instead of a solenoid that releases pressure in the master cylinder, the reversing of the wheels actually disengages the brake. I do not know whether I have this system or not, and I haven't removed the wheels yet to see what is there.

The manual for the DICO Model 60 actuator (which I read on-line) says to NOT use a block of wood, etc. to keep the actuator from activating when backing up. Not sure why. However, it seems like you could never back up if you don't have some system for disengaging the brakes for backing.

I guess I'm not surprised that when I emailed Triton Trailers for help on getting a manual and information on the braking system they simply told me to go to a dealer. Now that's product support.... :clapping:

 

Mark,

The brakes on that system will apply when you back up. Drum brakes are not very effective when backing up so on level ground it is not noticeable. The solenoid lock-out was developed for the disc brake systems which are effective in reverse and won't allow the trailer to back up. The solenoid works on the back-up light circuit and requires a plug with another connector and wire for the back-up light circuit.

I drilled a hole in the hitch in such a way that when I insert a pin or bolt, it prevents the mechanism from moving because I used to have to back up a steep driveway. The problem with doing this is that if you forget and leave the pin or bolt in, you have no trailer brakes. I don't think I drilled the new hitch because I don't have to back up a steep hill anymore. I will have to look.

I have an electric brake trailer also. It requires a special controller in the car and a harness with several more connectors and wires. I suspect that salty roads will be hard on the electric circuits in the wheels. If you lose power to the trailer from a salty connection or broken wire, you have no brakes. They require maintenance also, but they are adjustable from the car and the trailer brakes can be applied manually from the car also.

Any car that tows the trailer would need the controller and the special circuit to have brakes.

jim

 

That explains alot, and fills in a lot of my questions. As always, you have so much knowledge of this stuff and it is a real help and a real asset for this site.

My biggest issue with electric brakes is that I will be lending this trailer out, and it will be pulled by other vehicles at different times, depending on what we are doing and who is driving. So I'd rather not have anything that requires special wiring or controllers. Thus, I do not want a back-up solenoid, nor electric brakes.

My plan is to replace whatever needs replacing in the drum brake system, as well as new wheels, tires, and new bearing buddies.

I suspect that all the braking parts are DICO, and are easy to get. I have been writing down the part numbers for everything this morning on-line. Then I just need to match up and see if my trailer has the same parts. I don't think this stuff has changed much over the years. My neighbor is an A&P and has the flairing tools to make a new brake line - so that part should not be too hard. The old line is very rusty and I suspect it should be replaced, too.

I'll take some pics for the heck of it while I'm working on it this weekend and post them (everyone knows how I like to post pictures!).

 

Mark,

The only real issue that I have with my surge brakes is that my trailer has too much brake. The cars have ABS, so they don't skid. If I slam on the brakes the trailer tires have squealed which is a little embarrassing. It is most noticeable at low speeds and could be an issue on slippery roads. It has not been difficult to deal with. I tried to find wheel cylinders with smaller bores, but they are not readily available.

Edit: The aircraft flare tool may be the wrong angle for automotive brake lines. It is easy to check.

jim

 

Mark,

If you are going to replace the whole wheel brake assembly including the backing plate, you might want to investigate the "free backing" style of brake assembly.

I have never seen one, but from the diagrams, it looks like the front shoe is designed to cam away from the drum when you back up. If you did get on soft ground or need to back up hill this would be pretty cool.

I would get the same diameter and width drum and shoe that you have now.

jim

 

Jim,

The "free backing" style shoes are the ones I changed over to when I revamped my trailer. Very simple in design, and worked quite well.

Bob

 

Drum brakes on a trailer, and a lot of cars are self-actuating. Forward rotation of the drum tends to wedge the shoes harder against the drum, resulting in less pedal effort to applt the brakes. In reverse, the shoes are pushed away from the drum, and that is why you can usually force a drum brake trailer to back up without a lockout solenoid. Different types of shoes may enhance this effect.

 

I removed the wheels today and the drums. The drum brakes were totally rusted, frozen, and broken. The brake pads were no longer even attached to their metal backing. The pads were just loose inside the drums. Bottom line: Everything needs to be replaced, from the backing plates to the brake lines and actuator.

It looks like my best bet might be to get a complete kit. I can get the free backing (mechanically disconnects the brakes when you back up) drum brake kit, which comes with backing plate assemblies, drums, new bearings, brake lines and a new actuator assembly. The more expensive system has an alum. backing plate, stainless hardware, etc.

It is evident that these kinds of systems do need to be periodically adjusted manually. Not too hard. You just remove the wheel, the cotter (or tabbed washer), the hub nut, and the hub/drum. Then you just turn the adjuster to push the pads out as they wear.

I will get the parts ordered and take some pics. In the end, with new bearings, tires, wheels, and braking system, I should be into this trailer just a bit deeper than I intended but this has been an interesting learning process. Thanks to everyone for the help!