Trailers

Discussion in 'Restoration Projects & Questions' started by markbano, Nov 2, 2009.

  1. jim

    jim Hydrodyne 18 Specialist

    Joined:
    Jun 14, 2006
    Messages:
    2,321
    Location:
    FL
    Boat Model and Year:
    77 Dyne 18 I/O converted to Outboard
    Mark,

    If you look closely at the backing plate, there should be a rubber plug that you can remove to slip a screw driver or a brake adjusting tool in to adjust the brakes from the outside.

    When you re-assemble the system, write down which way the adjuster go to tighten, so there is no guess work later. I always forget.

    I don't think it is recommended, but I put a little anti-seize on the threads of the adjuster to keep it from rusting and seizing. Just a little, not enough to get on the brake shoes.

    You might be able to use that access to flush out the salt at the end of the season.

    I doubt that the stainless stuff is worth it.

    edit: There is a marine galvanized version:

    http://www.trailerandtruckparts.com/Gal ... p_486.html

    jim
     
  2. RiverRat

    RiverRat Hydrodyne 18 Specialist

    Joined:
    Sep 30, 2006
    Messages:
    508
    Location:
    Shoreview, MN
    Boat Model and Year:
    1971 Baby Dyne
    Ski Team:
    Twin Cities River Rats
    I was just going to mention all the stuff that Jim just said (access hole, galvanized version, anti-sieze on the adjuster) but was actually interested in the stainless version. I don't like the stainless and aluminum combination though.
     
  3. 2MERCS

    2MERCS Administrator

    Joined:
    Dec 14, 2004
    Messages:
    794
    Location:
    Eastvale, Ca
    Boat Model and Year:
    1973 Hydrodyne 18 w/Twin 1150 Mercs
    I have found that if you need to flush the drums (I have too on my travel trailer since it gets into the mud and sand) I cut off about 3/4" from the lower section on the backing plate. That allows Dirt and muck to be flushed out with out the pain of removing the whole drum.

    Daniel
     

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